The Most Exciting Designs From Tokyo Fashion Week
霓虹时尚图鉴：东京时装周回顾
Tokyo might not be one of the big four fashion capitals but that doesn’t mean their fashion week is anything less than fabulous! Staying true to traditional Japanese wear mixed with fashion tech and some outrageous runway worthy designs, Tokyo fashion week shouldn’t be overlooked. Unlike the fashion capitals, Tokyo Fashion Week is in collaboration with Amazon Fashion, another step Amazon have taken to upscale their fashion selections online. To take the leg work out of your fashion research, here’s our compilation of the most exciting designs to come out of Tokyo fashion week and the designers you should watch out for.
东京时装周最激动人心的设计
东京可能并非传统四大时尚之都之一，但这并不意味着他们的时装周有任何逊色之处。一向贯彻传统日本服饰与时尚科技的融合，和一些突出的T台设计，东京时尚周不应该被忽视。与传统时装之都不同的是，东京时装周选择与亚马逊时尚版块合作，这是亚马逊升级线上时尚产品的另一举措（有兴趣可阅读上大巴黎另一篇文章，剁手前的思考：亚马逊是时尚业的未来吗？）。为了省掉你搜索的工夫，我们精选了关于东京时装周最激动人心的和值得关注的设计师。
DRESSEDUNDRESSED
Founded in 2009, DRESSEDUNDRESSED is the brand name for Japanese designer Takeshi Kitazawa. The brand first burst onto the Tokyo fashion week scene in 2012 and has since gone from strength to strength, presenting a womenswear, menswear and accessories collection. Their S/S19 presentation was austere and dark as the mixed male and female models eerily appeared on the runway in stark shades of black, red and white before assembling themselves behind a banquet style dinner table that was as mysterious as the haunting horn music that accompanied the performance.
DRESSEDUNDRESSED
DRESSEDUNDRESSED成立于2009年，是日本设计师北泽武（Takeshi Kitazawa） 的品牌名称。该品牌于2012年首次亮相东京时装周，并从此不断壮大，继而退出了 了女装，男装和配饰系列。他们的19年春夏系列演示，风格朴素严峻且黑暗，男女模特以交错的方式诡谲地出现在走秀台上，行走在荒凉的黑色、红色和白色的灯影之 中，然而在一张宴会式餐桌后面聚集入座，这种情形与其管弦乐的舞台背景音一样显 得神秘不可测。
If deconstructed tailored pieces is your style, DRESSEDUNDRESSED is certainly a brand to keep up to date with. Many of their men and womenswear pieces for this collection featured deconstructed shirts, impeccable tailored jackets with bizarre embroidery and long line duster jackets. A must have black jumpsuit also made the cut, playing with asymmetry with one straight leg and one wide leg, split up to the thigh. Many of the jackets featured cut out backs and utility style straps. Although the closing scene of the collection looked more like a movie shot from a murder mystery party, the performance only got more bizarre as some of the models started to drink from the wine glasses at the dinner table, ever so slowly and cautiously, while others blind folded other models and one diner at the end appeared to have fallen asleep or been poisoned by the wine. As strange as it was, it was also incredibly alluring and somehow seemed to compliment the aesthetic of the clothes.
如果解构式剪裁对你的胃口，DRESSEDUNDRESSED绝对是一个与时俱进的品牌。这个系列中的许多男装和女装都采用了解构的衬衫，无可挑剔的剪裁夹克，奇异的刺绣和长线掸子夹克。一件作为必需品的黑色连体衣也做了剪裁，玩味地从胯部分开形成两条一边宽一边直筒的不对称裤腿。很多夹克设计的特点是经剪裁的后背，还有工装式的肩带。尽管这个系列的闭幕场景看起来更像一部关于神秘谋杀派对的电影，但表演显得更为离奇，当一些模特在餐桌上开始细慢地品酒，而另一边的模特似乎睡着或是被酒下了毒，使整个演出显得更加吊诡。这些场景都气氛诡异，同时也非常具诱惑力，似乎是对衣物美学的一份赞叹。
HAORI DE TITI
Switching up the mood to something much lighter in tone, designer Tazuko Yamaki established her brand HAORI DE TITI in 2014. Her conception derives from creating designs that are ageless and genderless. She focuses on relaxed draping and abstracted structure forms from Japanese culture such as the iconic kimono.
把心情换向明亮得多的设计师Tazuko Yamaki，设计师Tazuko Yamaki于2014年创立了她的品牌HAORI DE TITI。她的构思源于创造永恒和无性别的设计。她专注于日本文化中的轻松垂褶和抽象结构形式，如标志性的和服。
Her collection began with a more uplifting piano performance, reminiscent of the aristocracy and times gone by, perfectly setting the tone for the fashions that followed. Relaxed and floaty silhouettes were blended with structural bishops sleeves, wide leg pants and feather trimmed maxi skirts all in pure white. Contrasting textures played a large part in this Spring Summer collection as well as iridescent and metallic fabrics in her more colorful but still muted pieces. Relaxed fit kimonos were draped across the models shoulders, emulating holiday and resort wear styles. Each model adorned a hat or head piece with wide brim, adding to the idea that her clothes were perfect for beating the hot weather. Towards the end, the collection took on an evening wear vibe, contrasting itself with the initial all white outfits by keeping these pieces all in black. Shimmering fabrics in relaxed bat wing styles and wide leg pants stayed consistent however the day time hats were swapped out for pillbox hats and fascinators giving a subtle nod towards the 20’s.
她的系列以一场令人振奋的钢琴表演开始，让人想起贵族和时光流逝，完美地定下了接下来时装秀的基调。轻盈的浮动式的剪影，和教主造型的袖口，阔腿裤和羽毛边饰的超长裙都为纯白色。彩虹色和斑斓的金属色面料用在她有色感，同时又仍然柔和的作品中。轻松合身的和服披在模特肩膀上，仿效度假服装风格。每个模特都戴着宽边帽或头饰，给人以可以完美对抗炎热的印象。秀即将结束时，整个系列披上了晚装的气氛，全部用起了黑色，与一开始全为白色的套装产生对比。闪光面料用在宽松的蝙蝠袖和阔腿裤这种风格浑然一体，然而白天用的帽子换成了无边礼帽，另有网眼披肩是对20年代的巧妙致意。
YUKI TORII INTERNATIONAL
After many collections throughout the season choosing to stay clear of bright colors, an odd choice for Spring/Summer, we were glad of the fresh breath of air that YUKI TORII INTERNATIONAL brought. Designer Yuki Torii and her brand, unlike the other relatively new designers has been established since 1975 and with that wealth of experience she brings vibrant color and prints to the runway. Her aesthetic is to provide everyday clothes that suit your mood with comfort and practicality never being compromised over style. The most commercial of collections seen this season, her pieces were a mix of pant and top separates with matching jackets and a few pencil skirts thrown in too. A very wearable collection of florals and relaxed pieces mixed with tailoring, her collection was polished but very definitely age appropriate for her customer. Pant and skirt suit sets featured heavily at the start of the collection, followed by less rigid plissé skirts and well crafted jackets with a more youthful vibe.
在整个时尚季都选择与亮色保持界限以后，还有一个对春夏装特别的选择，我们很高兴YUKI TORII INTERNATIONAL带来的清新气息。设计师鸟居由纪（Yuki Torii）及其品牌与其他相对较新的设计师不同，自1975年成立以来，凭借丰富的经验，她为时装秀带来了鲜艳的色彩和印花。她的设计美学永远不会为了造型放弃舒适和实用性，让日常服装贴合人的情绪。作为这一季卖得最好的系列，她的作品将裤子，上衣，夹克和几条铅笔裙混搭。这个系列可穿性十分高，混合了花朵图案和休闲的剪裁，风格优雅大方，十分适合她客户群体的年龄。系列的开头以裤子和裙子套装为主，其次是活泼的泡泡纱裙子和精致的夹克，更具年轻气息。
It’s easy to see how these pieces could be styled in real life and mixed and matched to create multiple outfits. Bright florals gave way to pastel shades of gray, pink and blue with a blend of work appropriate, daytime and semi casual eveningwear. Every piece looked effortless on the models, never overworked or too thought out. All of the hem and necklines were kept modest to appeal to a larger market and while the skirt suits commanded power and confidence, the dresses and jumpsuits had a more feminine and flirty feel, full of oversized sleeves and ruffles. Perhaps simply due to her experience in the industry, this collection stood out above the others at Tokyo Fashion Week as being one of the most cohesive and wearable collections. No gimmicks, no conceptualization techniques, just simple, beautiful clothes every woman who wants to stands out together would want to wear in a heartbeat.
这些作品很容易能运用在现实生活，去搭配，去创造多样的整套服装。明亮的花卉让位于粉彩系的灰色、粉色和蓝色，适合日常和半休闲的晚装。每件作品在模特身上看起来轻松自然，没有过度加工和过度解读的痕迹。所有的下摆和领口都风格适中，以适应主流消费者。而裙装充满力量感和自信，连衣裙和连体衣多宽大衣袖和褶边元素，更为女性化，散发迷人魅力。作为东京时装周最有整体性和可穿性的系列之一，也许归功于她在行业里的经验，得以在众多设计师中独树一帜。没有任何噱头, 没有概念化的技巧, 只是简单、漂亮的衣服, 是每个想要脱颖而出的女人都想在心跳中穿上它们。
