Why Big Suits Are The Biggest Trend For Fall 2018
The energy behind the power suit will always have ties to 80’s fashion but it’s back for Fall 2018 in a huge way. More importantly, there’s a new message behind oversized, masculine suits and some celebrities are proving to be the driving force behind the trend.
Big Suit 80’s Style
为什么宽大西装是2018秋季最大的趋势
权力套装（power suit）身后的活力将始终与80年代的时尚界有关，而它也将在2018年的秋季强势回归。更重要的是，在超尺寸，男性化西装的背后传达着新的信息，一些名人明星也是这一趋势背后的推动力。
80年代的大西装
Think Diane Keaton in Woody Allen’s Annie Hall and Bianca Jagger and you’re on the right track. The big suit in the 80’s was a demonstration of equality, the 1980’s version of what we call a girl boss in 2018. The message was, women can wear stereotypical male clothes and when they do, they’re taken more seriously at work. The bigger the shoulder pad the better and the more powerful you looked. Dubbed power dressing, it strived to convey the message of gender equality in the workplace, that women can be bosses too. Big suits were seen with pants and skirts and eventually the trend evolved into big shoulders in general. Womens blouses and dresses also adopted strong masculine energy and even the late great Diana, Princess of Wales pioneered the trend.
想想黛安·基顿在伍迪·艾伦的电影<安妮·霍尔>中的形象，还有比安卡·贾格尔，那么你的思路是正确的。 80年代的大西装是平等观念的阐释，是在2018年我们称一名女孩为老板的1980年版本。这其中传达的信息是，女性可以穿典型的男性服装，并在她们这样穿时，她们会更加认真地对待工作。肩垫则越大越好，且使你看起来更加强大。以此被称为的专业化穿着（power dressing），它尽力传达的是工作场所的平等观念：女性也可以成为领导。大西装通常和裤装与短裙的形式出现，最终发展到有超肩衬。女式衬衫上衣和裙装也采用了具有强烈男性化的色彩，甚至戴安娜王妃，威尔士王妃也开创了这一潮流。
2018年大西装风格
这个秋季，这样的风格有类似，但尺寸上考虑更为加大，不再只将重点放于宽厚的肩膀设计，而外观通常采用阔腿裤设计，这种趋势已经存在几年，且无意消退。这种超尺寸的外观倾向于使穿着者陷入西装面料中，但同时剪裁又足以体现优雅和适用于红地毯。这一概念背后的信息也同样演化并适应这个时代，其中部分归功于#metoo运动（注：社交媒体上广泛传播的一个主题标签，用于遣责性侵犯与性骚扰行为）。2018年的大西装风格清楚地传达出女性需得到足够重视和尊重的信号。其中一项抵制声明是关于女性在好莱坞的魅力议题。在好莱坞聚光灯下的许多名人感到她们的外表像被在选美比赛中一样接受着评判，而不是人才的竞争和合作关系。而大西装风潮告诉女性不应该因为完美或不完美的体形而互相攻击。
2018秋装先锋
Big Suit 2018 Style
This Fall, the style is similar but considered more oversized than a focus on strong shoulders. The look is often styled with wide leg pants, a trend that has been around for a few years now and has no intention of disappearing. This oversized look has a tendency to shrink the wearer making them look swamped by suiting fabric yet still tailored enough to appear elegant and red carpet ready. The message behind the concept however has equally evolved to fit this era. Thanks in part to the #metoo movement, big suit style for 2018 sends a clear note that women are so much more than just their bodies. A resistance statement to what Hollywood glamour insists upon women, big suits say women should not be pitted against one another due to their perfect or imperfect body shapes. Many celebrities in the Hollywood limelight feel that their looks are judged like they are performing in a beauty pageant rather than a competition and collaboration for talent.
Lady Gaga被认为是首先引领大西装潮流的人物，当她作为女性以一身超大号马克·雅克布西装出现在好莱坞的视线，瞩目的宽厚肩膀，灰色面料使其沐浴在阳刚的气息之中，超大寸的袖口和裤装下摆将所有关于她明显女性化身材的暗示所隐匿起来。这位正向女演员转型的音乐艺术家最近直言娱乐界某人的性侵行为，表示至今仍畏惧向公众告发他的名字。而她在那天挑战式地宣称，她要收回她的话，因为今天她正穿着西裤。
It’s argued that Lady Gaga was the first to set the scene of big suits for Fall, when she appeared at a women in Hollywood event in an oversized Marc Jacobs suit. Strong shoulders in tow, the gray suit bathed her masculine energy, while the oversized cuffs and pant hems hid any hints towards her overtly feminine body. The music artist turned actress has recently been very vocal about her sexual abuse by someone in the entertainment industry, someone who she is still too afraid to denounce his name to the public. She claimed that day, she took back her voice, now she was wearing the pants.
朱丽叶特·刘易斯也在同样的好莱坞事件中加入到这个大西装潮流，以睡衣的形式引入到日常服饰。 她的出自海德尔·亚克曼（Haider Ackermann）的铁锈色丝绸套装虽不如Gaga的外观严厉，但同样显得气势轩昂。这位设计师谈到他的2018年秋冬系列时表示，他希望在这些不确定的时期以此提升女性的形象。这似乎对朱丽叶·刘易斯出席提升产业中女性形象的活动而言是完美的穿搭，并以其个人形象代言了整个系列。
At the same women in Hollywood event, Juliette Lewis also jumped on the big suit bandwagon, this time channelling the pyjamas for daywear trend at the same time. Her rust colored silk ensemble by Haider Ackermann was less rigid than Gaga’s look but not less powerful and commanding. French designer Ackermann said of his Fall/Winter 2018 collection as a whole, that he wanted to raise women up in these uncertain times. It only seemed to perfect for Juliette Lewis to don this suit, one that personified the entire collection, at an event designed for elevating women in the industry.
同样的， Tracee Ellis Ross(美国演员)也是大西装潮流的支持者。她在全美音乐奖做主持时所挑选的装束是一套带有黑边装饰的糖果粉西装，出自Pyer Moss，是设计师Kerby Jean-Raymond所扶持的品牌。正像她向观众所传达的那样，她不对任何事有要求除了“唤醒同情心，降低成见”，以此明确地定下当晚的主持论调。
What’s Next For Big Suits?
Fashion trends of course fluctuate and come around full circle with a slightly different twist or message behind the concept. For years we have been inundated with slim fit suits in both womenswear and menswear, slim tailored pieces dominating and rising to the occasion by iconic influential designers like Hedi Slimane. It’s unlikely that they will disappear completely, after all, their rise to the top of the trend charts is largely thanks to the shift in work wear and offices. It used to be that almost every office worker was asked to wear a suit including a shirt and tie every day, but things have changed and offices and workwear attire have become more relaxed for the large part. In many offices, shirts and ties have died out and been replaced by more casual knitwear pieces, slacks and even T-Shirts. This paved the way for the slim fit suit in many ways, allowing them to be worn with relaxed pieces instead of shirts and ties for a semi formal work wear look. If offices were as stuffy as they were before the millennium, we’re certain big suitswouldeverywhere.
大西装的未来是什么？
当然潮流趋势会有它的波动和轮回，在时代变更后会产生细微的变化，或者概念背后的信息变化。多年来，我们一直沉浸于修身的男女西装，修身剪裁的定制单品占主导地位， Hedi Slimane等有影响力的设计师所接受。它们不太可能完全消失，毕竟，它成为时尚的顶端绝大原因需归功于上班族和工作服的转变。在过去，几乎每个上班族都被要求每天穿带衬衫和领带的西装。但事情发生了变化，办公室和工作服的要求在很大程度上变得较以往更为宽松
在许多办公室，衬衫和领带已经消失，并被更休闲的针织品，休闲裤，甚至T恤衫所替代。这为修身西装的发展在多方面铺上了道路，使这些西装得以用轻松休闲的形式出现，而不是准礼装式的衬衫和领带。如果办公室着装要求不像21世纪前一样古板，宽大的西装必然到处都是了。
The big suit trend will undoubtedly be filtered down the fashion chain with fast fashion giants stocking their shelves with oversized blazers and strong shoulders once again but we imagine this to be a watered down version of the trend. Oversized blazers paired with skinny jeans or ultra shoulder padded jackets worn with micro mini skirts. For now though, it seems they will be kept for those who want to embrace their true message and anyone donning a big suit will of course look like they are at the top of their trend game but also intending to stay true to the statement they were created for. Which might not be a bad thing…
毫无疑问，当快销时尚巨头再次将超尺码外套和超肩衬放在货架上的那刻起，可以预见宽大西装终将被时尚链所淘汰，但我们可以想象为这是潮流经过洗礼后的版本：超大号西装式的外套搭配紧身牛仔裤，或超肩衬的夹克搭配迷你半身裙。就目前而言，它们将被保留给那些想要接受它们真实信息的人。任何穿着宽大西装的人不仅看起来就像处于潮流中的上游人士，而且也坚持他们所持有的鲜明态度，这不见得是件坏事。
